And growing cabernet is challenging on the east end of Long Island -- even on the warmer North Fork.
But it does not take a genius to decide whether or not the Mayacamas approach to cabernet is successful, as with sufficient bottle age, these magical cabernet sauvignons simply tower over most of their contemporaries.
As Bob Travers ventures to say, â€œall that talk of physiological ripeness these days with cabernet is simply an excuse to try and get huge crop loads to ripen sufficiently, as cabernet is always going to taste really green at those yields unless you let the grapes hang out there until they are nearly raisins.â€
The 1991 Mayacamas cabernet is really beginning to blossom at sixteen years of age and offers up another very Graves-like personality on both the nose and palate.
Last year I stopped for dinner at Chico's famous restaurant, where I had some fine cabernet from the extensive wine list and a steak dinner so huge that I couldn't finish it.